Two Rivers Four Lakes

Two Rivers and Four Lakes: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

Guilin sits in a landscape of almost absurd natural beauty, but the city's founders were not content to leave it unimproved. Over a thousand years ago, during the Tang and Song Dynasties, they connected the city's waterways into an ingenious network of rivers and lakes that allowed boats to circumnavigate the entire urban area. That system fell into disrepair over the centuries, but a massive restoration project completed in 2002 revived it spectacularly. Today, the Two Rivers and Four Lakes scenic area is the single best way to experience Guilin as a city — a waterway loop that winds past karst peaks, under ornate bridges, through illuminated pagodas, and alongside the city's most important landmarks, all without ever leaving the water.

Overview and Why Visit

The "Two Rivers" are the Li River (Lijiang) and the Peach Blossom River (Taohua Jiang), which flow through Guilin. The "Four Lakes" are Shan Lake, Rong Lake, Gui Lake, and Mulong Lake, which were once part of the city's moat system and are now connected by canals. Together, they form a continuous waterway loop of approximately 7.33 kilometers through the heart of Guilin.

For foreign visitors, this scenic area accomplishes something remarkable: it integrates Guilin's natural karst landscape, Chinese traditional architecture, and modern urban design into a single, cohesive experience. By day, the lakes and rivers offer pleasant walking paths shaded by banyan trees and overlooked by karst peaks. By night — and this is the real draw — the entire waterway is illuminated with thousands of lights that transform the bridges, pagodas, and hillsides into a glowing fantasy landscape reflected in the dark water.

The night cruise is widely regarded as one of the finest urban boat experiences in China, rivaling and in many visitors' opinions surpassing the Huangpu River cruise in Shanghai.

A Brief History

Guilin's waterway system dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), when the city's natural lakes were first connected by canals for transportation and flood control. During the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD), the system was expanded and refined. Historical records describe an elaborate water network that allowed boats to travel through the city, with bridges, pavilions, and gardens lining the banks. The poet and official Yan Yanzhi famously praised Guilin's waterways as part of the city's unmatched scenic beauty.

Over subsequent centuries, the canals silted up, the lakes shrank, and several waterway connections were lost. By the 20th century, the once-elegant system had deteriorated into polluted ponds and stagnant channels. In 1998, the Guilin city government launched an ambitious restoration project. Over four years, workers dredged the lakes, excavated new canal connections, rebuilt historical bridges, constructed new ones, planted thousands of trees, and installed a comprehensive lighting system.

The restored Two Rivers and Four Lakes scenic area opened in 2002 at a cost of over 1 billion yuan. The project was designed to recreate the spirit of the Song Dynasty waterways while incorporating modern infrastructure. The result is a seamless blend of historical reconstruction and contemporary landscape architecture that has become Guilin's most popular urban attraction.

What to See: The Complete Circuit

Shan Lake (Cedar Lake)

The southern lake in the system, Shan Lake is named for the fir trees (shan) that once lined its banks. Today, the lake is dominated by two striking structures: the Sun Pagoda and the Moon Pagoda, connected by an underwater glass tunnel. The Sun Pagoda is a 41-meter copper-clad tower — said to be the tallest copper pagoda in the world — glowing with warm golden light at night. The Moon Pagoda, built of marble, stands beside it in cool silver tones. Together they represent the Chinese philosophical balance of yang (sun, warmth, gold) and yin (moon, coolness, silver). The underwater tunnel connecting them allows visitors to walk between the pagodas while viewing fish through glass walls.

Rong Lake (Banyan Lake)

Named for the ancient banyan trees along its shores, Rong Lake is the most historically significant of the four lakes. An 800-year-old banyan tree on the north shore is one of the oldest living trees in Guilin and is designated as a protected heritage tree. The lake is crossed by the elegant Baoxian Bridge and features a small island with a restored pavilion. This section is particularly beautiful in the early morning when locals practice tai chi under the banyan trees.

Gui Lake (Osmanthus Lake)

Named for the osmanthus (gui hua) trees that are Guilin's signature plant — the city's name literally means "Forest of Osmanthus" — this lake blooms with intoxicating fragrance every autumn (September-October). The lake is bordered by a lovely walking path and crossed by several arched bridges. During the annual Osmanthus Festival, the entire area is perfumed with the sweet, apricot-like scent of thousands of tiny golden flowers.

Mulong Lake (Wooden Dragon Lake)

The newest and northernmost lake, Mulong Lake was fully excavated during the restoration project on the site of old canal channels. Its centerpiece is the Mulong Pagoda, which sits on the lakeshore and is spectacularly illuminated at night. The lake also features reconstructions of Song Dynasty-style buildings and a waterside promenade that is popular for evening strolls.

The Bridges

The waterway circuit features numerous bridges, each designed in a different style. Some are faithful reconstructions of historical bridges; others are modern designs inspired by traditional forms. Highlights include the nine-arched Liduo Bridge (modeled after a Song Dynasty original), the glass-floored bridge on Shan Lake, and several graceful stone arch bridges that frame the karst peaks beyond. At night, every bridge is illuminated, and their reflections in the water create perfect circles — a photographer's paradise.

Elephant Trunk Hill from the Water

The cruise route passes directly by Elephant Trunk Hill, Guilin's most famous landmark. Seeing the stone elephant from the water — especially illuminated at night — offers a perspective that is arguably better than the view from inside the park.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

The Night Cruise

This is the must-do experience. The night cruise departs from several boarding points (most commonly near Shan Lake or the Liberation Bridge area) and covers the full Four Lakes circuit plus a section of the rivers. Duration is approximately 90 minutes.

Price: CNY 190-290 depending on boat type and seating. VIP boats with smaller groups and better seating cost more. Some boats include a brief cultural performance onboard.

Schedule: Cruises depart between 7:30 PM and 9:30 PM, with multiple departure times. Book through your hotel or at the ticket offices near the boarding points. Advance booking is recommended during peak season (April-October) and essential during Chinese holidays.

What to expect: The boat glides through the illuminated waterway at a leisurely pace. An onboard guide (usually in Chinese, sometimes with English translation) describes the highlights. The lighting is genuinely spectacular — the pagodas, bridges, and hillsides glow in the dark water, and the atmosphere is magical. Dress warmly for evening cruises in spring and autumn.

Daytime Walking and Cycling

The lakes are connected by continuous walking and cycling paths that make for an excellent half-day exploration on foot or by bike. The full circuit is about 7.5 km and takes 2-3 hours on foot at a leisurely pace, longer with stops. Start at Shan Lake (near Shanhu Bridge) and walk counterclockwise through Rong Lake, Gui Lake, and Mulong Lake. The paths are flat, well-paved, and shaded by mature trees. Bike rentals are available at several points along the route (CNY 20-30 per hour).

Tickets for Individual Sites

Sun and Moon Pagodas: CNY 35 to enter the pagodas and walk through the underwater tunnel. The external view (free from the lakeside) is nearly as good.

Mulong Pagoda: CNY 35 for entry to the pagoda and surrounding historical area.

The lakeside paths and parks: Free and open 24 hours. No ticket needed for walking along the waterways.

How to Get There

The Two Rivers and Four Lakes system runs through central Guilin, so you are never far from it if you are staying in the city center. Shan Lake is closest to the main commercial area around Zhengyang Pedestrian Street. Any taxi driver will know "Liangshajiang Sihu" or you can show: 两江四湖.

Best Time to Visit

For the night cruise: Any evening with clear weather. The illuminations operate year-round. Autumn evenings (September-November) offer the most comfortable temperatures.

For daytime walks: Early morning (before 8 AM) when locals are exercising by the lakes, or late afternoon when the light is golden. The osmanthus blooming season (mid-September to mid-October) adds an extraordinary fragrance dimension.

Food Recommendations

• Zhengyang Pedestrian Street: Adjacent to Shan and Rong Lakes, this is Guilin's main dining and shopping street. Dozens of restaurants serve Guilin specialties. Try osmanthus-flavored pastries (gui hua gao) — soft, fragrant rice cakes unique to Guilin.
• Lakeside teahouses: Several traditional teahouses along Rong Lake offer Chinese tea ceremonies with views over the water. A pot of local osmanthus tea costs CNY 30-50 and is the perfect way to spend a quiet afternoon.
• Xiaonanguo: A reliable chain restaurant near Shan Lake serving Shanghai-style cuisine. Good for travelers wanting a break from Guilin-style food. English menu available.
• Night market stalls near Shanhu Bridge: Grilled skewers, fried noodles, river snails, and cold beer at sidewalk tables overlooking the illuminated Sun and Moon Pagodas. One of Guilin's most atmospheric dining spots.
• Guilin water chestnut cake (mati gao): A translucent, jiggly dessert made from water chestnut flour and sugar. Cool, refreshing, and perfect in hot weather. Available from street vendors around the lakes.

Insider Tips

• The night cruise is worth every yuan. Some visitors hesitate at the price, but the illuminated waterway experience is genuinely world-class. It transforms your understanding of Guilin from "a city near nice scenery" to "a city that IS the scenery."
• Walk the lakes in the morning, cruise them at night. Daytime shows you the natural beauty — banyan trees, karst peaks, locals fishing. Nighttime shows you the theatrical beauty — illuminations, reflections, atmosphere. Both are excellent, and they feel like completely different experiences.
• The Sun and Moon Pagodas are free from outside. The exterior view of the pagodas from the Shan Lake shoreline is superb, especially at night. The interior exhibition is modest and the underwater tunnel is short. Unless you have a strong desire to go inside, save the entrance fee.
• Bring mosquito repellent for evening visits. The lakeside areas attract mosquitoes, especially in summer. Apply repellent before your walk or cruise.
• Check for special performances. During holidays and peak season, cultural performances (traditional music, folk dance) are sometimes staged at lakeside venues. Ask your hotel about the current schedule.
• The best free viewpoint is from the small park between Shan Lake and Rong Lake, where you can see the Sun and Moon Pagodas reflected in the water with Elephant Trunk Hill in the distance.

Best Photography Spots

• Sun and Moon Pagodas at night: The most iconic image of urban Guilin. Shoot from the south shore of Shan Lake with a tripod. The golden and silver pagodas reflected in the dark water, with karst peaks silhouetted behind, is a world-class composition. Blue hour (30 minutes after sunset) gives the best sky color.
• Bridge reflections: The arched bridges create perfect circles when reflected in calm water. Shoot from water level for the most symmetrical effect. Every bridge along the route offers a different composition.
• From the cruise boat: The moving boat makes tripod use impractical, so raise your ISO and use image stabilization. Wide-angle lenses capture the sweep of illuminated scenery. The best shots come as you pass under bridges and past the pagodas.
• Ancient banyan tree on Rong Lake: The massive canopy of the 800-year-old tree reflected in the lake. Best in soft morning light. The gnarled roots and branches have tremendous photographic character.
• Morning tai chi practitioners: The lakeside paths are used by locals for morning exercise. With permission, photograph tai chi groups with the lakes and karst peaks as backdrop — a quintessentially Chinese scene.
• Osmanthus season: During October, close-up shots of the tiny golden osmanthus flowers with soft-focus lake backgrounds make beautiful macro images. The flowers are tiny but grow in dense, photogenic clusters.

The Two Rivers and Four Lakes scenic area proves that Guilin's beauty is not confined to the countryside. The city itself is a work of art — a place where water, stone, light, and centuries of human ingenuity combine to create an urban landscape of extraordinary elegance. Whether you walk the banks at dawn, cycle the paths at noon, or glide through the illuminated waterways at night, you will discover that Guilin's soul lives not just in its famous peaks but in the water that flows between them.