Xingping Ancient Town

Xingping Ancient Town: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

If you have ever seen a photograph of the Li River at its most hauntingly beautiful — karst peaks rising from still water, a lone fisherman on a bamboo raft, mist threading through the valleys — chances are it was taken near Xingping. This quiet ancient town, nestled in a bend of the Li River about 25 kilometers upstream from Yangshuo, sits at the epicenter of the most stunning stretch of the entire Li River landscape. It is the scene on the Chinese 20-yuan banknote. Yet despite this distinction, Xingping remains remarkably untouristy compared to its famous neighbor Yangshuo — a place where you can still wander cobblestone alleys, watch fishermen mend their nets, and experience a pace of life that has changed little in centuries.

Overview and Why Visit

Xingping Ancient Town has a history stretching back over 1,700 years, making it one of the oldest settlements in the Li River valley. The town served as a county seat during various dynasties and was once a significant river trading post. Today, it is a small, compact town of about 3,000 residents, with a well-preserved historic center of traditional buildings, narrow lanes, and an atmospheric riverside setting.

For foreign visitors, Xingping offers three compelling reasons to visit. First, the surrounding landscape is arguably the most beautiful along the entire Li River — the karst peaks here are taller, more dramatic, and more densely clustered than anywhere else. Second, the town itself has an authentic, lived-in charm that Yangshuo's West Street has largely lost to commercialization. Third, Xingping is the base for some of the region's best photography, hiking, and river experiences, all without the crowds.

Many experienced China travelers consider Xingping, not Yangshuo, to be the true gem of the Li River region.

A Brief History

Xingping's recorded history begins in 265 AD during the Three Kingdoms period, when it was established as the seat of Xingping County under the Eastern Wu Kingdom. For the next millennium, it served as a local administrative and commercial center, benefiting from its position on the Li River trade route between Guilin and Guangdong province.

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1912), Xingping prospered as a market town where goods from the mountains — timber, herbs, bamboo products — were loaded onto river boats for transport downstream. The town's wealth during this period funded the construction of the traditional buildings, temples, and clan halls that still form the historic center. Several buildings along the main street date to the Qing Dynasty, with distinctive gray-brick facades, carved wooden window frames, and curved tile roofs.

In 1998, a photograph of the Li River taken near Xingping — showing the famous bend with its cluster of karst peaks reflected in the water — was selected for the back of China's new 20-yuan banknote. This brought national and international attention to the town and cemented its status as the representative image of the Li River landscape.

Former US President Bill Clinton visited Xingping in 1998 during his state visit to China, further raising the town's profile among international visitors. The narrow lane he walked through the old town is now informally known as "Clinton Alley."

What to See and Do

The Old Town Streets

Xingping's historic center is a compact network of stone-paved lanes lined with traditional Qing Dynasty-era buildings. The main street runs about 300 meters from the town gate to the river. Buildings house small shops, tea houses, and family homes, many still occupied by the same families for generations. Look for the carved stone doorframes, traditional wooden lattice windows, and ancestral halls (ci tang) that punctuate the streetscape. The atmosphere is quiet and genuine — far from the neon-lit commercialism of Yangshuo's West Street.

The 20-Yuan Banknote View

The most famous viewpoint in the Li River region is located about 1.5 kilometers south of town along the river. Walk along the riverside path (or take a short boat ride) to reach the spot where the classic panorama — a sweeping river bend backed by a row of karst peaks — matches the image on the 20-yuan note. Bring a banknote for the comparison photo. The view is best in the early morning when the water is calm and the peaks may be wreathed in mist, or in late afternoon when golden light warms the limestone.

Xianggong Hill (Xianggong Shan)

About 6 kilometers from Xingping, this hilltop viewpoint offers what many photographers consider the single most spectacular panorama of the Li River — a 180-degree sweep of the river winding between karst towers, with layers of peaks fading into the misty distance. The climb takes about 30 minutes on a well-maintained stone path. Xianggong Hill is a pilgrimage site for landscape photographers, and sunrise here is transcendent. Entry fee: CNY 60. Get a taxi or electric scooter from Xingping (about 15 minutes).

Cormorant Fishing Photography

Xingping is the main base for the famous cormorant fisherman photo experience. Local fishermen, wearing traditional straw hats and carrying bamboo poles with cormorants perched on them, pose on bamboo rafts at dawn and dusk for photographers. While this is a staged tourist activity (traditional cormorant fishing has largely died out as a livelihood), the images are iconic and the setting is genuine. Sessions typically cost CNY 100-200 per photographer and are arranged through guesthouses or directly with the fishermen at the riverfront. Sunset sessions with lit lanterns on the rafts are particularly atmospheric.

Bamboo Raft on the Li River

Xingping is the starting (or ending) point for bamboo raft rides on the most scenic section of the Li River. Motorized rafts (styled as traditional bamboo) carry 4 passengers on a 1-1.5 hour journey past the Nine Horses Fresco Hill and Yellow Cloth Shoal — the same scenery the full Guilin-Yangshuo cruise covers, but at a more intimate scale. Rafts depart from the Xingping pier and cost CNY 100-200 per person depending on the route and season. Children under 7 and adults over 70 are not permitted for safety reasons.

Hiking the Li River Path

A riverside trail connects Xingping to several small villages downstream, passing through some of the finest scenery on the river. The most popular hike goes from Xingping to Jiuma Village (Nine Horse Hill area), about 5 km one way along the riverbank. The path winds through bamboo groves, past fruit orchards, and along pebble beaches with constant karst peak panoramas. Allow 2-3 hours for a round trip at a leisurely pace. The trail is flat and easy.

Laozhai Mountain

For a more challenging hike with a spectacular reward, climb Laozhai Mountain (Laozhai Shan), which rises steeply behind the town. The summit at about 380 meters offers a breathtaking bird's-eye view of Xingping, the Li River, and the surrounding karst landscape. The climb takes about 40-60 minutes up a steep stone stairway (over 1,000 steps). Best at sunrise. Entry is free but bring water and decent shoes.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Getting to Xingping

From Yangshuo: Local buses run every 15-20 minutes from Yangshuo bus station to Xingping (CNY 10, about 40 minutes). This is the most common approach. Taxis cost CNY 80-120.

From Guilin: Direct buses from Guilin bus station run several times daily (CNY 30, about 2 hours). Alternatively, take the Li River cruise from Guilin and disembark at the Xingping stop (tell the operator in advance).

By high-speed train: Yangshuo HSR station is about 30 minutes from Xingping by taxi (CNY 100-120). This station connects to Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Nanning, and other major cities.

Getting Around

The old town is entirely walkable — it takes about 10 minutes to walk end to end. For reaching Xianggong Hill or the 20-yuan viewpoint, rent an electric scooter (CNY 50-80 per day from guesthouses), hire a local taxi, or arrange transport through your accommodation.

Where to Stay

Xingping has a growing selection of guesthouses and small hotels, ranging from budget rooms (CNY 80-120) to charming boutique stays in restored traditional buildings (CNY 200-500). The best accommodations have river-view terraces with direct karst peak panoramas. Staying overnight is essential — the town's magic is most potent at sunrise and after the day-trippers leave. Some recommended options are along the riverfront or in the old town center.

Money and Connectivity

Xingping has limited banking infrastructure. There is one ATM (Agricultural Bank of China) near the town center, but it does not always accept foreign cards reliably. Bring enough cash for your stay. Mobile payment (Alipay, WeChat Pay) is accepted at most guesthouses and restaurants. Wi-Fi is available at most accommodations but can be slow. Mobile signal (4G) is generally adequate in town but patchy on hiking trails.

Food Recommendations

• Beer fish (pijiu yu): The same famous Yangshuo dish is available here, often at better quality and lower prices due to less tourist markup. The fish is fresh from the Li River, braised in local beer with tomatoes and peppers. Budget CNY 50-80.
• River shrimp (he xia): Tiny, sweet freshwater shrimp caught from the Li River, flash-fried with salt and chili. Simple, delicious, and hyper-local. CNY 30-50 per plate.
• Guilin rice noodles: The ubiquitous breakfast dish is available at several small shops in the old town. Follow the early-morning crowd to find the best bowl. CNY 8-12.
• Home-style village cooking: Several family-run restaurants in the old town prepare simple, excellent meals using locally grown vegetables, free-range poultry, and river fish. Point at ingredients in the kitchen and the cook will prepare them. Meals typically CNY 30-60 per person.
• Riverside barbecue: In the evening, small barbecue stalls set up along the waterfront with plastic chairs and cold beer. Grilled river fish, eggplant, corn, and tofu skewers under the stars with karst peaks silhouetted against the sky — this is peak Xingping atmosphere.

Insider Tips

• Stay at least two nights. One night is not enough. You need one sunrise for Xianggong Hill or Laozhai Mountain, one sunset for the cormorant fisherman photos, and the hours between for rafting, hiking, and old-town exploring.
• Wake before dawn. The Li River at sunrise near Xingping is one of the most beautiful sights in China. Whether you climb a hill or simply walk to the riverbank, the combination of morning mist, calm water, and the first light on the peaks is unforgettable.
• Xianggong Hill gets crowded for sunrise. During peak season, photographers crowd the summit. Arrive at least 45 minutes before sunrise to secure a good position. In low season, you may have the summit to yourself.
• The old town is most atmospheric in the early morning and late evening. When the day-trip crowds have departed and the tour buses have left, Xingping returns to its true character — a quiet river town where elderly residents play cards in doorways and the only sounds are birdsong and the occasional boat motor.
• Bring a headlamp or flashlight if you plan pre-dawn hikes. The trails to Laozhai Mountain and Xianggong Hill are not lit.
• The fisherman photo sessions are best in autumn and winter when morning mist is most common. Spring and summer mornings can be clear, which produces different but still beautiful results.

Best Photography Spots

• Xianggong Hill at sunrise: The definitive Li River panorama. Layers of karst peaks with the river snaking between them, often with mist filling the valleys. Use a telephoto lens (70-200mm) to compress the layers and emphasize the depth. Also works spectacularly at sunset.
• The 20-yuan banknote viewpoint: The classic comparison shot — hold up a 20-yuan note and photograph the matching view behind it. Beyond the novelty shot, this location offers genuinely beautiful compositions of the river bend and peaks.
• Cormorant fisherman at golden hour: The silhouetted fisherman with cormorants on his bamboo pole, lit lantern reflecting in the water, karst peaks behind. This image has become one of the most iconic photographs in Chinese travel photography. A fast lens (f/2.8) helps with the low light.
• Laozhai Mountain summit: A different perspective from Xianggong Hill — more directly above Xingping town with the river curving away. The steep climb rewards with a unique bird's-eye composition.
• Old town details: Weathered wooden doors, stone-paved lanes, elderly residents, and traditional architecture. The old town photographs beautifully in soft, overcast light. A 35mm or 50mm lens captures the intimate street scenes well.
• River reflections at dawn: Walk to the riverbank before sunrise when the water is mirror-calm. The perfect reflections of the karst peaks create symmetrical compositions that are simply breathtaking. Shoot from as low to the water as possible.

Xingping is the Li River experience distilled to its purest essence — no theme parks, no neon lights, no tourist buses clogging the streets. Just an ancient town, an ancient river, and some of the most extraordinary natural scenery on the planet. It is the China that painters have been depicting for a thousand years, and it is still here, waiting for you to round the bend and see it with your own eyes.