Leifeng Pagoda

Leifeng Pagoda: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

On the south shore of West Lake, a graceful pagoda rises above the tree line, its silhouette so perfectly proportioned against the water and hills that it seems less like a building and more like a natural extension of the landscape. Leifeng Pagoda has stood in some form at this spot for over a thousand years, and its story — encompassing royal patronage, legendary serpent spirits, dramatic collapse, and modern resurrection — is one of the most romantic and culturally resonant tales in all of China. This is not just a tower with a view. This is the pagoda from one of China's greatest love stories, and visiting it is as much about narrative and legend as it is about architecture and scenery.

Overview and Why Visit

Leifeng Pagoda (Leifeng Ta) stands on Sunset Hill (Xizhao Shan) on the southern shore of West Lake, directly across the water from Baochu Pagoda on the north shore. The two pagodas frame West Lake's most famous panorama and have been paired in Chinese art and literature for centuries — "The southern screen, the northern peak; Leifeng like an old monk, Baochu like a beautiful girl." The current pagoda, completed in 2002, is a modern reconstruction built on top of the excavated ruins of the original 10th-century structure, which collapsed in 1924.

For foreign visitors, Leifeng Pagoda offers three compelling reasons to visit. First, it is inextricably linked to the Legend of the White Snake (Bai She Zhuan), one of China's most famous folk tales — understanding this legend enriches your experience of West Lake enormously. Second, the pagoda's underground ruins, visible through a glass floor, represent genuine archaeological remains of a 10th-century Buddhist monument, including original foundation stones and relics. Third, the view from the top of the pagoda — a sweeping panorama of West Lake, its causeways, islands, and the surrounding hills — is arguably the finest viewpoint in Hangzhou.

A Brief History

The original Leifeng Pagoda was built in 975 AD by King Qian Chu of the Wuyue Kingdom, one of the Ten Kingdoms that fragmented China after the fall of the Tang Dynasty. Qian Chu built the pagoda to celebrate the birth of his son and as a Buddhist devotional act. The original structure was a five-story, eight-sided brick pagoda with wooden eaves and galleries — a common style of the period. Buddhist sutras (scriptures) and relics were sealed within the pagoda's brickwork, a practice intended to generate spiritual merit.

In 1924, the pagoda — which had been gradually deteriorating for centuries, partly due to visitors stealing bricks (which were superstitiously believed to bring good luck or ward off evil) — finally collapsed. The event was witnessed by crowds and reported in newspapers. The great writer Lu Xun wrote a famous essay titled "On the Collapse of Leifeng Pagoda" (1924), using the event as a metaphor for the fall of oppressive feudal traditions. The collapse revealed a hidden crypt containing Buddhist relics, including a miniature silver pagoda housing a strand of what is claimed to be the Buddha's hair.

For nearly 80 years, the pagoda's absence left a gap in West Lake's skyline and in the local cultural identity. In 1999, the Hangzhou government decided to rebuild. Archaeological excavation of the ruins was conducted in 2001, revealing the original foundation, the underground crypt, and numerous artifacts. The new pagoda was completed in 2002, designed to evoke the Song Dynasty original while using modern materials (steel frame, copper cladding). Crucially, the new structure was built directly over the preserved ruins, which are visible through a glass floor on the ground level — creating a remarkable layer-cake of history.

The Legend of the White Snake

No visit to Leifeng Pagoda is complete without knowing the story. The Legend of the White Snake (Bai She Zhuan) is one of China's Four Great Folktales and has been told, performed, and adapted for over 600 years. In brief: a white snake spirit and a green snake spirit transform themselves into beautiful women — Bai Suzhen and Xiao Qing. Bai Suzhen falls in love with a mortal man, Xu Xian, whom she meets on the Broken Bridge at West Lake. They marry and live happily until the Buddhist monk Fahai discovers Bai Suzhen's true nature. Declaring their love a violation of the natural order, Fahai traps Bai Suzhen beneath Leifeng Pagoda, condemning her to eternal imprisonment. The story has been interpreted as a love tragedy, a parable about freedom versus authority, and a commentary on the conflict between human desire and religious orthodoxy. When the real pagoda collapsed in 1924, popular imagination declared that Bai Suzhen had finally been freed.

What to See: Top Highlights

The Underground Ruins

The ground floor of the new pagoda houses the excavated ruins of the original 975 AD structure, visible through a protective glass floor. You can look down at the original brick foundation, the underground crypt (where the silver relics were found), and fragments of the original pagoda walls. The site is climate-controlled and well-lit. Informational displays (with English text) explain what you are seeing. Standing above the actual stones laid over a thousand years ago, while peering into the crypt that held sacred Buddhist relics for centuries, is a genuinely moving archaeological experience.

The Pagoda Interior

The reconstructed pagoda has five stories connected by both stairs and escalators (a modern concession to accessibility). Each floor features large carved wooden panels depicting scenes from the Legend of the White Snake, executed in extraordinary detail. The carvings tell the complete story — from the first meeting on the Broken Bridge, through the marriage, the confrontation with Fahai, to the imprisonment beneath the pagoda. Even without prior knowledge of the legend, the narrative carved into these panels is powerful and beautiful. The craftsmanship is exceptional.

The Summit View

The top floor of the pagoda opens onto a viewing gallery that offers a 360-degree panorama of West Lake and its surroundings. This is widely considered the single best viewpoint in Hangzhou. To the north, the full sweep of West Lake unfolds — the causeways, islands, Baochu Pagoda on the opposite shore, and the hills beyond. To the south, the Qiantang River is visible on clear days. To the west, the tea-covered hills stretch toward Lingyin Temple. At sunset, when the light turns golden and the water reflects the sky, the view is transcendent.

Sunset Hill Gardens

The pagoda sits within a landscaped park on Sunset Hill, with walking paths, gardens, and viewing terraces. The hill is small (about 50 meters) but the gardens are attractive and well-maintained. Several viewpoints along the path offer different perspectives of the pagoda framed by trees and flowers. The name "Sunset Hill" tells you when to visit — the afternoon and evening light on the pagoda and the lake is the most beautiful.

"Leifeng Pagoda at Sunset" — The Classic View

This view — the pagoda silhouetted against the sunset sky, reflected in the lake — is one of the original "Ten Scenes of West Lake" established during the Song Dynasty. To see it properly, you need to be on the north side of the lake (near Broken Bridge or the Bai Causeway) looking south toward the pagoda as the sun sets behind it. The silhouette effect is most dramatic during autumn and winter when sunsets are more vivid.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Tickets and Hours

Entrance fee: CNY 40 (approximately USD 5.50). This includes the pagoda climb, the underground ruins, and the hill gardens.

Opening hours: 8:00 AM - 8:00 PM (March 16 - October 31); 8:00 AM - 5:30 PM (November 1 - March 15). Last entry 30 minutes before closing.

Time needed: 1-1.5 hours for the pagoda, ruins, and surrounding gardens.

How to Get There

On foot from West Lake: The pagoda is on the south shore, about a 20-minute walk from the Su Causeway's southern end or from the Flower Harbor park area.

By bus: Routes Y2, Y6, Y7, and K4 stop near the pagoda. The "Jingci Si" (Jingci Temple) stop is closest — the temple is immediately adjacent to the pagoda grounds.

By bicycle: The lakeside cycling path passes directly by the pagoda entrance. Shared bikes can be parked at the docking station near the gate.

By boat: Boats from the north shore (Broken Bridge area) can drop you at the Leifeng Pagoda pier on the south shore.

Best Time to Visit

Late afternoon: The pagoda faces west, and the warm afternoon light illuminates its copper surface beautifully. Visiting 2-3 hours before sunset allows you to see the pagoda in warm light, then watch the sunset from the top.

Evening (summer only): During the extended summer hours, visiting at dusk allows you to see the pagoda illuminated against the darkening sky and the lake lights beginning to sparkle.

After snowfall: Snow on the pagoda and surrounding gardens, with the frozen lake beyond, creates scenes of extraordinary beauty. These moments are rare and fleeting.

Food Recommendations

• Jingci Temple vegetarian restaurant: Immediately adjacent to the pagoda, Jingci Temple has a simple vegetarian restaurant open to visitors during lunch hours. The food is plain Buddhist temple fare — rice, vegetables, tofu — but genuine and inexpensive. CNY 10-20.
• Louwailou Restaurant: A 15-minute walk along the lakeshore to the north, this is Hangzhou's most famous restaurant (established 1848). Its location on the lake makes it the ideal spot for a meal after visiting the pagoda. Try the West Lake Vinegar Fish and Dongpo Pork. Budget CNY 100-200 per person.
• Nanshan Road cafes: The road running along the east shore near the pagoda has numerous modern cafes and restaurants. Good for coffee, light meals, and people-watching with lake views. CNY 30-60.
• Zhiweiguan (West Lake location): A branch of this historic Hangzhou snack restaurant is within walking distance. The xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and cat-ear noodles are excellent. CNY 30-50 per person.

Insider Tips

• Learn the White Snake legend before you visit. The carved panels inside the pagoda and the entire emotional resonance of the site depend on knowing the story. Read a summary before you go — it transforms the visit from "climbing a tower" to experiencing one of China's greatest love stories in its actual setting.
• Do not skip the underground ruins. Many visitors rush past the ground floor to start climbing. The excavated original structure visible through the glass floor is the most historically significant part of the entire site — genuine 10th-century remains of a royal Buddhist monument.
• Visit Jingci Temple next door. This active Buddhist temple, originally built in 954 AD, is peaceful and less crowded than Lingyin Temple. The evening bell of Jingci Temple is one of the traditional "Ten Scenes of West Lake." Entry CNY 10.
• The best view OF the pagoda (as opposed to FROM the pagoda) is from the north shore of West Lake, particularly from the Long Bridge area or from a boat on the water. The pagoda reflected in the lake at sunset is the classic composition.
• The escalators inside the pagoda may seem incongruous in a historical monument, but they make the top-floor panorama accessible to visitors of all mobility levels. Use the stairs for the experience, or the escalators for convenience — both reach the same magnificent view.
• The adjacent Jingci Temple evening bell ceremony (when it occurs) is a beautiful aural experience. The deep bell tones carry across the lake and are considered one of the defining sounds of Hangzhou.

Best Photography Spots

• Pagoda silhouette at sunset: The defining image of Leifeng Pagoda. Shoot from the north shore (Broken Bridge area or Bai Causeway) using a telephoto lens to compress the pagoda against the sunset sky, with the lake in the foreground. Silhouette exposure (meter for the sky, not the building) produces the most dramatic result.
• The summit panorama: A wide-angle lens captures the full sweep of West Lake from the top floor. Shoot through the openings in the viewing gallery to frame the lake with the pagoda's architecture. Late afternoon golden light is ideal.
• Underground ruins through glass: The excavated foundations visible through the glass floor make a compelling archaeological photograph. Use available light (no flash) and press the lens close to the glass to minimize reflections.
• White Snake legend carvings: The carved wooden panels on each floor are photographic subjects in their own right. Detail shots of the figures and narrative scenes work well in the soft interior light.
• Pagoda and lotus flowers: In summer, lotus ponds near the base of the hill bloom with pink flowers. The pagoda rising above a field of lotus is a quintessentially Chinese composition.
• Night illumination: The pagoda is beautifully lit after dark (visible from the north shore even when the pagoda itself is closed). Long-exposure shots from across the lake capture the reflection in the water.

Leifeng Pagoda is that rare monument that carries meaning far beyond its physical form. In its stones — both the thousand-year-old originals below and the modern reconstruction above — lies a story about love and imprisonment, about collapse and rebuilding, about the enduring power of legend to shape how we experience a place. When you stand at the summit and look out over West Lake at sunset, watching the same view that inspired poets and painters for a millennium, you are not just seeing scenery. You are seeing the landscape that gave birth to one of the world's great love stories, and that story makes every ripple in the water shimmer with a deeper light.