Kashgar Old City

Kashgar Old City: The Ultimate Guide for Foreign Visitors

At the far western edge of China, closer to Baghdad than to Beijing, the ancient Silk Road oasis of Kashgar feels less like a Chinese city and more like a crossroads of Central Asia, the Middle East, and South Asia that it has been for two thousand years. The Old City — a labyrinth of narrow alleys, mud-brick houses, artisan workshops, and bustling bazaars — is the heart of Uyghur culture and the most atmospheric urban experience in all of China. Walking through Kashgar's Old City, with the call to prayer echoing from minarets, the scent of cumin-spiced lamb drifting from grills, and craftsmen hammering copper and carving wood as they have for centuries, you are as far from Beijing as it is possible to be while remaining within China's borders — culturally, geographically, and spiritually.

Overview and Why Visit

Kashgar (Kashi in Chinese) is located in the far southwest of Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, approximately 4,000 km from Beijing. The city sits at the western edge of the Taklamakan Desert, at the point where the northern and southern Silk Road routes converged before crossing the Pamir Mountains into Central Asia. The Old City (Kashgar Gaotai Minju, or "High Platform Residences") covers approximately 4.25 square kilometers and has been continuously inhabited for over 2,000 years.

The Old City's architecture reflects its Uyghur and Central Asian heritage: mud-brick and timber houses built around internal courtyards, decorated with carved wooden balconies, colorful tile work, and ornate doorways. The streets form an organic labyrinth — narrow alleys that twist, turn, dead-end, and suddenly open into small squares where workshops and tea houses cluster. This urban pattern, common throughout the Islamic world from Fez to Isfahan, is virtually unique in China.

For foreign visitors, Kashgar Old City is one of the most culturally distinctive and rewarding destinations in China. It offers an experience closer to visiting Uzbekistan or Iran than anything available in eastern China — an Islamic, Turkic, Central Asian culture with its own language, cuisine, music, architecture, and social customs. The city is also one of the last surviving examples of an ancient Silk Road oasis town, connecting you directly to the great trade routes that shaped world history.

A Brief History

Kashgar's strategic position at the junction of Silk Road routes made it one of the most important trading cities in Central Asia for over two millennia. The oasis settlement existed before the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD), when Chinese explorers like Zhang Qian first documented the western regions. For centuries, the city passed between Chinese, Turkic, Tibetan, and Mongol control, each leaving cultural layers while the underlying Turkic-Islamic character endured.

Islam arrived in Kashgar in the 10th century through the Kara-Khanid Khanate, and the city became one of the most important centers of Islamic learning in Central Asia. The great scholar Mahmud al-Kashgari produced his monumental Turkic dictionary here in the 11th century. The Sufi tradition also took deep root, and the Apak Khoja Mausoleum (built in the 17th century) became the region's most revered Islamic shrine.

The Qing Dynasty incorporated Kashgar into the Chinese empire in the 18th century, but the city maintained its Uyghur character through subsequent periods of semi-autonomy and rebellion. The 20th century brought dramatic changes — the Chinese Communist government's policies in Xinjiang have significantly impacted Kashgar, including a controversial redevelopment of the Old City beginning in 2009 that demolished and rebuilt large sections in the name of earthquake safety.

Today's Old City is a complex mixture of genuinely ancient sections, reconstructed areas built to replicate the historical character, and modernized infrastructure beneath the traditional facades. Despite the changes, the essential character of Kashgar — the bazaar culture, the artisan traditions, the Uyghur language and cuisine — endures.

What to See: Top Highlights

The Alleyways and Residential Quarters

The primary experience of Kashgar Old City is simply getting lost in its maze of alleys. The streets are narrow — often barely wide enough for two people to pass — and shaded by overhanging balconies and occasional grapevine pergolas. The houses present decorated doorways to the street, with life hidden behind courtyard walls in the Islamic tradition of private domestic space. Painted wooden doors, carved plaster decorations, and colorful tile panels adorn the facades. Wander without a map for the most authentic experience; the Old City is compact enough that you cannot get truly lost for long.

The Artisan Streets

Kashgar's artisan traditions survive in workshops scattered through the Old City. Specific streets specialize in particular crafts — one lane for coppersmiths, another for woodcarvers, another for potters. The most notable artisan traditions include:

• Copper and metalwork: Craftsmen hammer pots, plates, and decorative vessels from copper and brass, producing the distinctively Central Asian tea sets and water ewers seen throughout Uyghur homes.
• Musical instrument making: Kashgar is famous for producing traditional Uyghur instruments, including the rawap (a long-necked lute), the dutar (two-stringed lute), and the dap (frame drum). Several workshops on the streets near Id Kah Mosque make and sell these instruments.
• Woodcarving: Intricately carved wooden panels, furniture, and architectural elements are produced in workshops where master carvers use techniques unchanged for generations.
• Knife-making: The Uyghur yengisar knife, with its ornately decorated handle and curved blade, is a cultural icon. Traditional knife workshops can be visited in the Old City.

The Sunday Bazaar (Kashgar Livestock Market)

Though the traditional Sunday bazaar has been reorganized and partially relocated, Kashgar's market culture remains vibrant. The livestock bazaar — held on Sundays on the city's outskirts — is one of the most extraordinary market experiences in Asia. Thousands of sheep, cattle, donkeys, horses, and camels are bought and sold in a chaotic, dusty, noisy spectacle that feels unchanged from medieval times. Uyghur, Kazakh, Tajik, and Kyrgyz traders in traditional clothing haggle over animals while tea vendors and kebab sellers work the crowd. This is not a tourist attraction — it is a working agricultural market that happens to be one of the most visually spectacular events in western China.

Id Kah Mosque

China's largest mosque dominates the Old City's central square. While covered in a separate guide, the mosque and its surrounding square are integral to the Old City experience. The square in front of Id Kah is the social heart of Kashgar — a gathering place where elderly men sit in the shade, children play, and the rhythm of daily prayers structures the day.

Apak Khoja Mausoleum

Located just outside the Old City, this 17th-century mausoleum is the most important Islamic shrine in Xinjiang. The turquoise-tiled dome and decorated facades reflect Central Asian architectural traditions. Inside, the tombs of five generations of the Khoja family are draped in silk. Chinese tourism promotes the site as the "Fragrant Concubine Tomb" (Xiangfei Mu), based on the story of a Kashgar woman taken to the Qing emperor's court, though this connection is historically disputed.

The Night Market

Kashgar's night food market, located near the Id Kah Square, transforms the surrounding streets into an open-air feast every evening. Dozens of vendors serve grilled lamb, naan bread, pilaf (polo), samsa pastries, pomegranate juice, ice cream, and scores of other Uyghur delicacies. The atmosphere — clouds of charcoal smoke, the sizzle of grilling meat, the calls of vendors, the warm light of gas lamps — is intoxicating.

Practical Information for Foreign Tourists

Tickets and Hours

Old City entry: Free to walk the streets. No entrance fee for the general old city area.
Specific attractions: The Apak Khoja Mausoleum (CNY 30), certain renovated heritage houses (CNY 30 for a combined ticket), and some cultural exhibitions may charge admission.
Sunday Livestock Market: Free entry, but located on the city outskirts (taxi required, CNY 15-25).

How to Get There

By air: Kashgar Airport (KHG) has daily flights from Urumqi (approximately 1.5 hours), as well as connections from Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, and Xi'an (most via Urumqi). The airport is 10 km from the Old City (taxi CNY 20-30).

By train: The railway from Urumqi to Kashgar takes approximately 20-24 hours (regular train) or 16 hours (newer faster services). The journey crosses the Taklamakan Desert and is an experience in itself. Sleeper berths are recommended.

By the Karakoram Highway: Kashgar is the Chinese terminus of the Karakoram Highway, which crosses the Khunjerab Pass into Pakistan. Travelers arriving overland from Pakistan enter China at Tashkurgan and continue to Kashgar.

Where to Stay

Several hotels and guesthouses operate within or near the Old City. Staying inside the Old City walls is highly recommended for the atmosphere — waking to the pre-dawn call to prayer and stepping out into the ancient alleys before they fill with visitors is a defining Kashgar experience. Options range from basic hostels (CNY 50-100) to mid-range boutique hotels in renovated traditional houses (CNY 200-600). The Old Town Youth Hostel and similar establishments specifically cater to international travelers.

Food

Kashgar's cuisine is distinctly Central Asian and halal:

• Polo (pilaf): Rice cooked with lamb, carrots, onions, and raisins. The cornerstone of Uyghur cuisine and served at virtually every meal.
• Kawap (kebabs): Cumin-and-chili-spiced lamb skewers, grilled over charcoal. The simplest and most ubiquitous Kashgar street food.
• Lagman: Hand-pulled noodles in a lamb and vegetable sauce. The noodles are made fresh, often pulled to order.
• Samsa: Baked pastries filled with spiced lamb and onion. The Kashgar version has a flaky, golden crust.
• Naan: Freshly baked flatbread from clay tandoor ovens. Multiple varieties exist — plain, sesame, onion, and sweet. Kashgar naan is considered the finest in Xinjiang.
• Pomegranate juice: Fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice is sold throughout the bazaar. Kashgar's pomegranates are famous across China.

Budget CNY 20-50 per person per meal. The food is hearty, heavily meat-based, and extraordinarily flavorful.

Cultural Sensitivities

Kashgar is a predominantly Muslim Uyghur city. Foreign visitors should observe the following courtesies:

• Dress modestly, particularly when visiting mosques (cover shoulders and knees; women should bring a headscarf).
• Do not eat, drink, or smoke openly during Ramadan (dates vary annually).
• Ask permission before photographing people, especially women.
• Remove shoes when entering mosques.
• Alcohol is available but not widely consumed; be discreet.
• Pork is not served in Uyghur restaurants (all are halal).

Security

Xinjiang has enhanced security measures. Expect passport checks at hotels, transportation hubs, and the entrances to major sites. Carry your passport at all times. Security screenings (similar to airport-style checks) are common at markets, mosques, and public buildings. While these measures can feel intrusive, they rarely cause significant delays for foreign tourists.

Photography Tips

• The alleyway labyrinth: The narrow alleys with their decorated doors, overhanging balconies, and unexpected light shafts are endlessly photogenic. Use a wide-angle lens (16-24mm) to capture the confined spaces. Morning light creates warm shafts penetrating the alleys from the east.
• Artisans at work: Craftsmen hammering copper, pulling noodles, or carving wood make compelling subjects. Ask permission, which is usually granted. Use available light rather than flash to preserve the atmospheric quality of the workshops.
• The livestock market: A photographer's paradise — dusty, chaotic, and full of character-filled faces and dramatic animal-human interactions. Bring a zoom lens (70-200mm) for candid portraits and wider lenses for the overall atmosphere. Go early (8:00-10:00 AM) for the best light and peak activity.
• Night market atmosphere: The smoke, the warm light, the busy hands of cooks — the night market is best photographed with a fast lens (f/1.4-2.8) at higher ISOs. Avoid flash, which destroys the atmospheric lighting.
• Architectural details: Carved doorways, painted wooden balconies, decorative tile panels, and the geometric patterns of Islamic art provide rich detail subjects. A moderate telephoto (85-135mm) isolates individual details from their surroundings.
• People: Kashgar is one of the most photogenic cities in China for human subjects — the diversity of faces, clothing, and activities is extraordinary. Always ask permission for close-up portraits. Many people, especially craftsmen and market vendors, are happy to be photographed.

Insider Tips

• Stay at least two full days. Kashgar reveals itself slowly. The first day is for orientation and the major sites; the second day is for getting lost in the alleys, discovering hidden workshops, and sitting in tea houses watching life unfold.
• Go to the Sunday livestock market early. The market is most active between 8:00 and 11:00 AM. By early afternoon, most trading is done. Take a taxi to the market site (about 15 minutes from the Old City). This is a genuine working market — watch your footing and be aware of animals.
• Eat at the night market multiple times. Each visit reveals new stalls and dishes. Try something different each night. The market is a social event as much as a culinary one — Kashgar families come here for dinner.
• Learn basic Uyghur greetings. "Yaxshimisiz" (how are you) and "rahmet" (thank you) open doors and earn smiles. Even minimal Uyghur wins enormous goodwill.
• Note the time difference. Kashgar operates on unofficial "Xinjiang time," approximately 2 hours behind Beijing time (which is the official time). Many Uyghur businesses operate on local time, while government offices and transportation use Beijing time. Confirm which time system is being referenced when given appointment or departure times.
• Use Kashgar as a base for the Karakoram Highway. The drive from Kashgar to Tashkurgan (approximately 5 hours) along the Karakoram Highway passes Karakul Lake and some of the most spectacular high-altitude scenery in Asia. This is a must-do day trip or overnight excursion from Kashgar.

Kashgar Old City is the antidote to the idea that China is culturally monolithic. Here, at the western extreme of a vast country, is a city that speaks a Turkic language, prays in mosques, trades in bazaars, and cooks with cumin and lamb — a city that has been a crossroads of civilizations for two thousand years and that, despite the pressures of modernity and politics, remains one of the most culturally distinctive and fascinating places in all of Asia. Come with open eyes and an empty stomach, and Kashgar will fill both beyond measure.